Nepal

BIT OF A SURPRISE

A few days ago I was looking at some things about nepal when I found a link to a tourism site there.

The thing that immediately caught my eye was the slogan which says “Once is not enough”. Now, that happens to be the same title as my book (which you can download on the right of this page).

Now I don’t know if we came up with it independently or not but I can tell you for absolute certain that I did not get it from there. It was a bit of a shock for me to read it there actually.

However, I don’t really care too much if they did take it. Other things I would mind if they didn’t have a link or a credit or something but this I don’t mind particularly – it is not as if I invented the phrase. If you look through some of my posts about Nepal and look at the comments there then you will see a lot of comments saying thank you for writing nice things about Nepal and such like so that is always nice for me too.

I also still regularly get emails about “I’m going to Nepal, can you tell me A,B,C etc” which is fine even thought things have changed a lot since I was there.  And I  may or may not have had an email from tourist industry people but I tend to keep a clean inbox so I am not sure.

NEPAL PHOTOS – Part 3

Another of my travel stories has been published over at AsiaEast [one about Korea this time].

Anyway, here are some more of those photos for anyone who is interested. At the Hindu temple Pashupatinath I managed to find a cow with no head..

I think the force of the word ‘landslide’ doesn’t really get you till you see one, or see the aftermath of one…

An Orwell fan on tour… and completely unintentionally this was my room, and the hotel was terrible…

We all know that Hitler took the swastika symbol and changed the meaning so this wasn’t a complete surprise but still…

NEPAL PHOTOS – Part 2

Some more of those Nepal photos. If you click on them they go full screen…

I really like this one with the women working in the paddy fields…

You find these guys in Kathmandu. This is in Durbar Square in the city centre. They want money from you for the photo and will apparently put a curse on you if you don’t give them any money…

I loved this. This is at the foot of the mountain that the first two pictures in the previous post were taken from. You go along the Himalayas, over a mountain, past a few army checkpoints then across a lake and you come to this – and they called it ‘TYPICAL RESTAURANT’..

Another thing you may not know – James Brown is not dead – he has a trekking equipment shop in Pokhara…

More tomorrow.

NEPAL PHOTOS – Part 1

One good thing about being home is that you get the chance to look at all your old things.

I have a lot of photos on my computer but I got to see some that I hadn’t seen for a while that I think I should probably share. I will do the Nepal ones today.

I have written before that Pokhara in Nepal does a good impression of paradise. Also, I wrote that we walked up the mountain in the dark so we could see sunrise over the Annapurna range of the Himalayas – well, I discovered I have two rather good photos of that…

A rather amazing view I hope you agree.

But there are others…

This is apparently the largest prayer wheel in the world. The photo underneath is a dog getting high from the vibes…

These other pictures can speak for themselves…no, wait, this is taking too much time – you can see them tomorrow.

WELL DONE NEPAL

Congratulations to Nepal on the declaration of the republic.

There is obviously still a lot of work to be done in that country but well done nonetheless.

Before I went there I read several times about how the Nepalis thought their King to be almost godlike. When I arrived I found that nothing could be further from the truth. I didn’t meet a single person that believed the official story about the royal massacre and I only met two that actually liked the king, and one of them wasn’t Nepali.

Hopefully this marks the real end of the civil war and a chance for the people of this country – who I found to be the friendliest I have met anywhere in the world, even in the midst of their adversity – to address the all too severe problems of poverty that afflict this incredibly beautiful part of the world.

Nepal votes to abolish monarchy

The Himalayan nation of Nepal has become the world’s newest republic, ending 240 years of monarchy.

A constituent assembly meeting in the capital, Kathmandu, overwhelmingly voted to abolish royal rule.

People celebrated wildly in the streets of the capital after news of the assembly vote.

The approved proposal states that Nepal is “an independent, indivisible, sovereign, secular and an inclusive democratic republic nation”.

Only four members of the 601-seat assembly opposed the change.

Royal privileges “will automatically come to an end”, the declaration says.

It also states that the king’s main palace must be vacated within a fortnight, to be transformed into a museum.

HAPPY REPUBLIC DAY NEPAL – NAMASTE! Have some nice raaksi, momos, daalbaat or whatever you prefer! I am sorry I am not there to join in and be thoroughly beaten at chess again and again.

Other Nepal stories by me.

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For everyone non-Nepali. This is where you should be planning to go for your next holiday. They need the tourist money and it is one of the most beautiful places you will ever see. The picture is one of myself after having walked up a mountain at night with a couple of friends to see the sunrise over the Annapurna range of the Himalayas.

You have to go and see for yourself.

THE GERMAN ABROAD

Travelling around you do meet some very different people.

When I was in Nepal I went to a football match in Kathmandu. The teams were dreadful and one of them was winning 5-0 at halftime. The team that were winning were playing a 3-5-2 formation and the other team quickly degenerated into the old playground formation of 1-0-9 (I want to score I want to score me me me).

Quite by accident I happened to be sitting next to the only other foreigner in the crowd. He was about 50 years old, German, and had a crazy story to tell.  

I asked him if he was a scout looking for players and he said no so I asked him if he was on holiday and he said no. Running out of options, I asked him if he worked in Nepal and he said no.

“What are you doing here then?”

“I travel the world and watch a football match in each country. I want to see a game in EVERY country in the world. This is my 85th country.”

“Wow, thats great. Do you make a holiday of it every where you go? Is your family with you?”

“No, I come on my own. I got here yesterday and I leave tonight. I am going to Bhutan to watch a game and then I am going home to Germany the next day.”

“Let me get this straight… you have come all the way here from Germany and you won’t see anything else in the country other than the airport, the football stadium and a hotel room?”

“Yes. I have been trying for years to get into North Korea to watch a game but they won’t let me.”

It seems very odd to me to go to all these places and never try to go and see anything. I try to go to a game wherever I go too but I certainly wouldn’t go to the game at the expense of seeing the other things which the given country has to offer.

I do still wonder what number the guy is onto now and if he did get into North Korea.

THE A-Z NEPAL – Part 5

There are three posts today so if you want something else then there is more below. Anyway…
A few years ago I spent some time doing voluntary work (building a school) in rural Nepal.

It was far and away the best experience of my life. The warmth and the friendliness of the people despite everything they have to put up with is something I will never forget.

When I got home I wrote a 6000 word A-Z of Nepal for the volunteers the next year so they would have a bit more of an idea when they arrived.

This was all 4 years ago so some of the information is out of date. Nevertheless, I am going to serialise it here.

Here is the 5th part, P.

Parts 1-4 can be found by scrolling down at this link.

The A-Z of Nepal

P

P is for People – aside from the odd chancer in tourist areas it is difficult to describe just how nice the people in this country are. Travellers who have come to Nepal from India often comment on how the difference is like night and day. Well mannered in their own way and courteous at all times, many of them would like nothing better than for you to eat daalbaat with them, no strings attached. Crime is incredibly low and you can feel safe walking down streets at night or leaving your things in your hotel room. They have an infectious habit of laughing when faced with adversity which can put you completely at ease with a situation. Whether they are making money from you or not, most of the people simply want you to enjoy yourself (and enjoy daalbaat).

P is for Pokhara – Pokhara does a fairly convincing impression of paradise. Take as an example this diary entry……….Ke Garne?

love-pokhara.jpg

picture from http://www.pokharalodge.com/

The Nepali national saying (if there is such a thing) is “Ke garne?” which means “What to do?”. What to do indeed if you have just finished a month in a remote village in fairly harsh conditions. In Pokhara, mid-Nepal, for a foreigner, this is the essential dilemma you are faced with, but it’s a positive dilemma.

An early wake-up at 7am is followed by a stroll onto the hotel rooftop garden for a cup of tea (and a cigarette – if you are so inclined) and to see the entire Annapurna range of the Himalayas before the monsoon clouds roll in. That said though, they only roll in a little so as to slightly obscure the view, Pokhara itself remains in brilliant sunshine.

You may then want to get in touch with home to rave about the views. No problem, Internet is available everywhere and is about 2 pence per minute (if you are feeling flush you can phone home for a pound a minute). Then its off for a leisurely breakfast – with all the other things you can’t get in the rest of Nepal – this may all seem extremely important if you have been in a village and eaten nothing but lentils and rice for more than a month.

Then you may wish to take a boat out onto Phewa Lake. This will cost about 350 rupees (3 pounds) for a whole day. On the lake you are still afforded magnificent Himalayan views and you can simply wallow in the sunshine. You may want to take a CD Walkman and listen to music, which you haven’t done properly for a month either. If the rowing becomes too strenuous it is possible to put in at any number of little jetties (or not if you don’t feel like it). Just a little further along you will come to an excellent restaurant called “Typical Restaurant”. The reason why it is called this, I regret to say, I can’t fathom. Here you will sit in the garden and eat freshly caught fish from the lake which is both excellently prepared and delicious.

If all this relaxation gets a bit much for you, you can get in your boat again and head back to the shore (slowly of course). On this journey you may come across your friends who are happily swimming in the river and/or rowing themselves around. Even if your friends don’t fancy rowing (well, it’s a bit much like work isn’t it?) they can balance on an underwater pipe to stop them from drifting (drifting, it must be added, very slowly, even the currents are relaxed in Pokhara). After you have exchanged pleasantries with them about hampers, scones, and straw boater hats (Henley Regatta jokes are allowed here), you will probably feel its time to get to shore, after all, its been about 3 hours without a cocktail and that has become your most pressing concern.

All this moving about does get tiresome. So, to ensure you don’t have to do too much of it tomorrow, you can go into one of the many excellent restaurants and arrange for the following evening for you and your friends to be served food in a private room at no extra cost and watch a film of your own choice, after all, you may not have seen one for a month.

Later on in the evening after you have sunbathed and read in the 30-degree heat (books of all persuasions from the sublime to the silly are readily and cheaply available in the many bookshops), you might feel a bit peckish. Why not then, go to the best restaurant in Pokhara (the Lemon Tree)? You can have Indian, Nepali, Chinese, or European food – all excellently prepared – hell, why not have a cold beer or two also because those cocktails can get too fruity after a while can’t they?

After consuming this excellent repast you may feel it is time for fun and to play a game or two. So you go forth to pub/club where you can play pool for free and your friends, if they so wish, can set up and perform an open stage set through the P.A. system as you play pool! You may even meet two people from Motherwell (well – you can’t have everything can you?). After your friends have finished their live performance you will be allowed to choose the music in the club. And finally, after a mini lock-in,

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you may choose to buy a beer more each by way of a nightcap and toddle off to your hotel safe in the knowledge of a job well done and confident you have only spent about 11 pounds.

P is for Popcorn – for some bizarre reason happy hour in Nepali bars means you get free popcorn with your beer.

P is for Porters – apparently the average porter can carry up to 80kg. This is more than the weight of an average person being hauled up a mountain. And all of this is done of course, wearing flip-flops.

P is for Powercut – frequent but short-lived. Landslides or thunderstorms can cause them in the monsoon season

P is for ‘Pheri Betola’ – which means ‘see you later’.

THE A-Z OF NEPAL

A few years ago I spent some time doing voluntary work (building a school) in rural Nepal.

It was far and away the best experience of my life. The warmth and the friendliness of the people despite everything they have to put up with is something I will never forget.

When I got home I wrote a 6000 word A-Z of Nepal for the volunteers the next year so they would have a bit more of an idea when they arrived.

This was all 4 years ago so some of the information is out of date. Nevertheless, I am going to serialise it here.

Here is the first section which is A to C…

The A-Z of Nepal

A

A is for Altitude – The Himalayas are known as “the roof of the world” and even in Kathmandu you are at around 800 metres altitude. Altitude sickness can kick in at around 2,500m but you can easily find yourself getting tired quickly at lower levels. You probably won’t notice it in Kathmandu or Pokhara but when you get out into the villages it will hit you. After about a week you should have adjusted and be able to move about as normal. If you are very high up though, it won’t get much easier for a long time.

A is for Americansnot the most popular people in Nepal. There are several reasons for this. The Maoists have declared that they do not want Americans in Nepal. As a response to this the US government has warned its citizens not to go there. However, there are still American tourists and more than that there are allegedly American troops too (although estimates vary as to how many – the figure I heard most was about 100 soldiers). The US and Nepali governments both say that the troops are only there to train the Royal Nepal Army in order to defeat the Maoist insurgents. Whilst the Maoists are certain to be annoyed by this fact alone they contend that the US military wants to set up a permanent residence, which may or may not be true. This would be strategically important and advantageous for the US due to the proximity to China. If you meet a Maoist he is likely to ask you if you are an American, even if you are, just say no. Americans will not get trouble in the tourist areas, but if they stray into the villages they may be unlucky.

A is for Army – the Royal Nepal Army are, at time of writing, extremely active in Nepal. The political troubles mean that there are checkpoints everywhere and there are heavily armed soldiers roaming around at all hours. Whilst the numbers are impressive the effectiveness doesn’t seem to be. The army is also extremely unpopular with the average Nepali.

B

B is for the Batcave – just outside Pokhara is the Batcave or ‘Chomero Gupha’. Now that his secret is out it appears that Bruce Wayne will have to move elsewhere. Also, given that the batcave is in Nepal it gives us an idea how fast the batmobile must go if he could always get to Gotham City to catch criminals in time.

B is for Buff (Buffalo) – Hindu religion does not permit the eating of beef. However, you will find it relatively easy to get a buff steak. There is no massive difference between beef and buff (in fact sometimes buff is beef which has been culled in India and sent to Nepal but remains buff on the menu so as not to offend strict Hindus).

C

C is for Child mortality – this is a huge problem in Nepal. 27,000 children die every year from diarrhoea alone. With the political problems currently faced by Nepal and a growing population (its expected to double in the next 25 years) this problem is going to get worse unless drastic steps are taken to improve sanitation and provide clean drinking water.C is for Commission – this is the favourite game of many of the more “colourful” traders. When you arrive at the airport you may have a hotel in mind. You may ask the taxi driver to take you there. Do not be surprised if you are then informed that the hotel has burnt down or has changed its name or some such thing. It hasn’t burnt down or changed its name – you have just been playing your first game of COMMISSIONTM. The taxi driver in addition to your fare will be receiving a slice of your hotel bill too. Kathmandu is where the most skilled players are and as long as you don’t take any nonsense and argue in order to get where you really want to go, it can actually be quite funny (on the other hand, it can be a fright if you have just been informed that the hotel all your friends who arrived the day before you are in has burnt down – which is what happened to me).

C is for Corruption – always a major problem. Many anti-globalisation protestors and NGOs do not like people raising this issue in relation to developing nations in case people decide to withdraw their support because they do not feel their money will go where it is most needed. Nonetheless, it is a problem and ignoring it will not make it go away. The “Kathmandu Elite” tend to misappropriate a lot of funds that were meant to go to more worthy causes. When the Maoists first started out they worked mainly at exposing the corruption in Nepal. This is why at first they were extremely popular.

C is for Crime – despite having a civil war on Nepal, in terms of street crime is actually one of the safest places you could visit. Crime is incredibly low and there really isn’t a problem at all with regards petty theft and muggings and the like. Tourists have less chance of being mugged or robbed here than maybe anywhere else they could go.

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P.S.

You can also sign up for the RSS feed again as I seemed to have removed it somehow. It is on the right hand side if you scroll down.

Kathmandu

What would you do if you were in a country on the other side of the world where there is a civil war, a general strike and an army curfew? You could do what we did – which was this – bribe a bar, have a lock-in and then crawl back to your hotel under cover of darkness after having watched the Celtic game.

democ

I had been doing volunteer work in Nepal and for a month I didn’t know what was going on with the Celts at all. We were in a village that was three hours through the jungle to the nearest phone never mind satellite TV. Now, whilst it was a brilliant experience in the village, I got back to Kathmandu (the capital of Nepal) and I was suffering from Celtic cold turkey. I checked the Internet to see how we had been getting on and I noticed that the Celtic V Bayern match was going to be on ESPN Asia.

All well and good you might think but the trouble is that they are having a civil war at the moment (I would say they are knocking seven colours of shit out of each other but actually, due to guardia, amoebas, worms and many types of intestinal nastiness there are considerably more than 7 colours of shit in Nepal) and this would make it difficult. The Maoists/Communists (who are fighting the army) had called for a general strike for three days and this was to begin the next morning. Because of this strike the Royal Nepal Army had called a curfew for 9pm on the night of the game, which they promised was going to be “rigorously enforced” (kick-off was half past midnight Nepali time – for some strange reason the time difference is 4hrs 45 mins). This provided us with a problem. EVERYTHING was to be closed and EVERYONE had to be in his or her house or hotel before 9pm. We could either pay a fortune for a hotel room with satellite TV and we couldn’t afford to do this or we could bribe a bar owner to let us stay in the bar and put us all at risk. After about two seconds consideration we decided the second idea was the way forward as the only other option was to miss the match and that, was not an option.

thamelThe bartender made it extremely clear to me that I would have to be incredibly quiet, sit with the lights out and that I would have to be responsible for my mates doing the same thing because he didn’t want either the army or the Maoists turning up and shooting him or closing him down (we didn’t particularly want this to happen to us or him either).

The difficult part of that was that the game didn’t kick off till 00.30am and we had all been in the pub since three in the afternoon – and we would be in there in darkness getting pissed and trying to be quiet – I didn’t rate our chances.

So after dinner the 5 of us had to get round into the bar before 9pm. Walking/running down the street we randomly bump into a guy wearing an Ireland strip (1994 world cup style) and we asked him if he fancied watching it – “Fecking Excellent” he shouts (not really “fecking” but you know what I mean) so he came along with us too.

Somewhere down the line a guy from Manchester who looked suspiciously like Mani from the Stone Roses had joined us as well but none of us can remember how he managed to tag along (he wasn’t Mani –we forced his wallet off him to check then gave it back).

Regrettably, we weren’t all tims. The guy from Manchester was a Man Utd fan, one guy was a Ross County fan and two of the six were actually hearts fans (but supporting the Celts for the European night) but 3 out of 7 people when you are that far away isn’t that bad.

Anyway, by the time kick off came round we were all pretty hammered and had been warned to shut up a few times by the guys at the bar who were playing cards by candlelight and doing their best to ignore us. They had heard of Celtic but didn’t know any players so we gave them their first lesson about Henrik – I can’t say they were totally engrossed but they listened politely and gave him the necessary respect!

After the match started it was 10 times harder to keep quiet. A couple of patrols went by outside too – the bar had a guy watching the street ready to turn the TV down or off if the army or the Maoists suddenly got a bit interested in what was going on.

First half came and went – to be honest it’s a bit of a blur in my memory now after the all day drinking session we had had. Second half starts, Thommo scores and we all go absolutely nuts. Far too nuts in fact. The bar guys were sh*tting themselves that we had raised the whole neighbourhood. After settling down we kept VERY VERY quiet for about 10 minutes then started to breathe a bit easier just as Munich scored.

After they scored their second goal we didn’t really have time to be depressed as the thought of getting back to the hotel safely was enough to occupy our minds for the moment. The bar had originally said we could sleep there till the curfew ended at 5am – it was now about 2.45am – but because we had made so much noise and fuss they decided that they were prepared to “let” us go sooner.

My hotel was the nearest so we all decided to go back there (except the Manchester guy – but I will come to that). This meant getting out the back door and crawling round to the hotel. To be totally honest, I don’t think we were capable of doing much more than crawling at this point anyway.

We had to ring the bell of the hotel for ages before anyone came to let us in but eventually we made it. We hadn’t won but we hadn’t been arrested or killed either and at least we had played well enough.

However, the Man Utd fan had went off on his own and the police had heard the commotion we were causing trying to get into the hotel a few minutes before. They assumed it was him and before long he had a gun in his back and was being pleasantly escorted/carried/forced/kicked back to his hotel at gunpoint – he was lucky it wasn’t worse.

I met him the next day and he told me all this (and thanked me for it). The next day a couple of restaurants were open in defiance of the strike and one of them was showing the full match, which they had recorded the previous night. I didn’t know they were going to do this but I think that even if I had known it wouldn’t have made the slightest bit of difference – we would have watched it live anyway.